My neighbor showed up at my door the other day with two duck eggs that she had seen at the market and thought the neighborhood foodie might appreciate. I had never seen a duck egg before—they’re huge!

Now Ruth Reichl is telling me I’m ahead of the game, in the latest edition of the Gourmet magazine weekly newsletter:

Have you noticed that duck eggs seem to be popping up at farmer’s markets? When I found them at the supermarket last week, it occurred to me that this might be a trend. Duck eggs are bigger, the yolks richer. Bakers love them because the whites have more albumin (protein). … Next time you see a duck egg, take it home and cook it.

I’m a little nervous about these ginormous duck eggs. I’ve used one in a cake, when I was short one chicken egg, but I worried that the sheer size of it would throw off the recipe proportions. The other is languishing in the fridge. A friend who bought some recently ended up baking with hers because cooked plain they had an “off-puttingly gamy aroma.”

Is Ruth onto something here, or is there a reason that chickens have cornered the egg market?

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