What do you get when you blend the frozen milk of oregano-eating goats with powder derived from the tubers of a particular Turkish wild orchid? You get Maras Dondurmasi, an ice cream–esque treat with distinctly taffylike properties that is traditionally eaten with a knife and fork.

Saveur blows the lid off of this exotic sweet by sending one of its writers on a 24-hour journey from San Francisco to Maras, where she hangs out in a dondurmasi shop and proclaims the stuff dense, silky, and subtle.

One brief aside: In the pages of Saveur, the word dondurmasi ends in a mystery symbol that Saveur renders as a miniature numeral 1. Most likely Turkish—and undoubtedly helpful to anyone who speaks the language—it is not very useful to English-speakers such as the entire readership of the magazine.

See more articles