Chowhounds disagree heatedly over Righteous Urban Barbecue—as they do over most every barbecue house in town—though most rank it among New York’s best. ScottK, while not entirely won over, allows that the Kansas City–style smoke joint does some things better than anyone else, including burnt brisket ends and chicken wings.
To that list, he adds the frequently sold out “Szechwan” smoked duck (which gets a decidedly un-Chinese raspberry-habanero glaze). Having analyzed the cooking process, Scott concludes that much of the fat is shed during smoking, leaving meltingly tender meat under skin rendered beautifully crisp, in part by the sugar in the glaze. “It was amazing,” he sighs. “The combo of the not overly sweet glaze on the crisp skin, the great taste of the remaining fat, and the perfectly cooked duck meat was incredible.”