Why spend $3.95 for a world-class gyro at Rafiqi’s meat cart on the corner of 32nd and Park Avenue when you could spend $20 on ingredients and hours of your own time, instead? Oh, what’s that? You don’t live in New York? Well, that might explain the appeal of the new Cook’s Illustrated story on “Bringing Gyros Home.”

Gyros (pronounced “JY-ros” if you want to annoy Greek people) are all about grabbing something hot and foil-wrapped as you hoof it downtown, but there’s no reason they couldn’t spruce up dinner at home. Except, perhaps, for the prep involved. Are you ready? Making gyros with tzatziki sauce involves foil, a large bowl, a nonstick skillet, a soup spoon, a fine-mesh strainer, another large bowl, a colander, another bowl and a food processor. It would be nominally easier to roast a turkey instead, and only slightly more time consuming.

That said, if you’re jonesing hard for a gyro or you’ve got to prove a point to a non-NYC-savvy pal, Cook’s Illustrated may have done us a solid. If nothing else, it helps us appreciate the kind of crap Rafiqi’s got to go through on a daily basis.

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