Pigs and Kings

It’s no surprise that Alice Waters, queen of American organics and champion of all things handcrafted and artisanal, is down with Prince Charles. After all, the prince is, by all accounts, a passionate guardian of Britain’s agricultural traditions and a dedicated organics advocate. As Waters pointed out to Kim Severson in a recent piece in the New York Times, “Al Gore doesn’t even talk about food.”

But as chummy as His Royal Highness might be with Ms. Waters, the article reveals that the prince has a new BFF. And it’s none other than Eric Schlosser, Mr. Fast Food Nation himself.

Who wouldn’t want to trade McDonald’s-baiting for tea at Highgrove, the prince’s country estate? After all, life at Highgrove’s Duchy Home Farm sure sounds like fun. As Severson notes, “[R]ustic signs proclaim the land free of genetically modified organisms. Rare breeds of British cattle eat red clover. Heirloom ginger Tamworth pigs roll in royal mud.” And is that the man himself, talking to the vegetables?

Even Blue Hill’s Dan Barber, normally a levelheaded chef and a sustainable-ag advocate (and a man who serves bacon made from the herd of black Berkshire pigs that root through the Rockefeller-owned woods outside his second restaurant, Blue Hill at Stone Barns), became tongue-tied and flustered when serving the prince pickled turnips and beet-and-goat-cheese burgers at a recent awards ceremony at the Harvard Club. “I honestly don’t know what happened,” claimed Barber.

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