Gastropoda, Regina Schrambling’s blog chronicling the NYC food media’s swift trip to hell in a handbasket, wouldn’t be the first place we’d look for a write-up of The Wonder Bread Cookbook: An Inventive and Unexpected Recipe Collection. Nor would we expect Berkeley’s Ten Speed Press, publisher of Charlie Trotter’s oeuvre as well as the original Moosewood Cookbook, to be down with the bubbles.

True to form, Schrambling was not amused.

I would suspect it is a joke, but it includes balls — a formula for rolling the gummy gunk into them. Funny, I always thought a recipe was for something you would eat. And a cookbook involved food.

So, why does it exist, anyone? Seems Wonder wanted to commemorate its 85th anniversary with 50 recipes proving that there’s more to the white stuff than Fluffernutters, PB&Js, and throwing wads at your little brother. Hence the subtitle, trying hard for kitsch and legitimacy in equal doses.

Unexpected, sure. But inventive? Well, that’s one word for dishes like Wonder Beef Cups and Sweetened Tomato and Wonder Casserole.

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