San Francisco’s Delfina hasn’t lost its touch nine years down the road (or its popularity—two weeks ahead the only reservations available on a Saturday night were 5:30 and 10 p.m.). A recent late-night supper included heavenly asparagus with Parmesan, spicy cauliflower and pasta, and halibut in Meyer lemon–caper butter, plus a baked-to-order Scharffen Berger chocolate cake to finish. (Chocolate: still hot.) And despite the full house, service was friendly and attentive, without ever giving the impression the table needed to be cleared for another party. Chowhounds seem to agree. Long live Delfina!