The old-fashioned slice at Gustosa Pizza is a ticket back to a sweet and sunny past for hounds of a certain age—hounds like Jim Leff, who confesses to a fondness for “circa 1972 shopping mall pizza.” Gustosa, he adds, is “like a time machine, a mausoleum of extinct pizza stylings.” Its Sicilian slice is the neighborhood’s best, and occasional specials like the Caprese are also worth a sniff, says david sprague, who loves the sweet-spicy balance in the sauce.
Other practitioners of this throwback style are Sal and Carmine’s in Manhattan and Attilio’s in New Brunswick—neither a universal hound favorite, Jim acknowledges. Gustosa, too, has its detractors. “Terrible,” grumbles christocc. “Too much cheese, sweetened sauce, oily, and the worst part, a too-thick, gummy crust.”
joekarten offers up another contender for best slice in the neighborhood: Catinella’s Pizza Corner.
Gustosa Pizza [Jackson Heights]
77-09 37th Ave., near 77th St., Jackson Heights, Queens
Sal’s and Carmine’s Pizza [Upper West Side]
2671 Broadway, near W. 102nd St., Manhattan
Attilio’s Pizza and Restaurant [Middlesex County]
875 U.S. Hwy. 1, near Milltown Rd., North Brunswick, NJ
Catinella’s Pizza Corner [Jackson Heights]
95-02 37th Ave., at 95th St., Jackson Heights, Queens