In a way, New York’s latest bagel moment turns back the clock. Baz Bagel & Restaurant, which opened two months ago in Little Italy, makes thinner, denser bagels than the puffed-up specimens that have taken over the city since the onset of automation starting in the ’60s. Rolled by hand in small batches, the old-fashioned way, they’re a welcome throwback—“Small, well done, and tasty,” as stuartlafonda reports on Chowhound. Baz’s blintzes, whitefish salad, and lox with eggs have also won fans.
Another ‘hound, mitchleeny, great-grandson of a Bronx bagel baker, finds Baz’s wares flavorful enough but still on the overfed side, with too low a crust-to-crumb ratio. Among the new wave of old-school bagels, he prefers the Montreal-style ones that had crowds lining up out the door at Black Seed in nearby Nolita. “The density, the weight, the crustiness and the taste of the Black Seed bagel did it for us,” he writes.
Baz Bagel & Restaurant [Little Italy]
181 Grand Street (between Mulberry and Baxter streets), Manhattan
Mooch sandwich photo from Baz Bagel / Instagram