Decoy is about the duck, and the duck doesn’t disappoint. Opened in December downstairs from sister restaurant RedFarm, it introduced its signature feasts of Peking duck a month ago, and the CHOW community is already ranking it among the top versions in town.
Pookipichu describes a beautiful bird with moist, clean-flavored meat clad in crisp skin. It’s the centerpiece of a multicourse dinner with up to 24 served nightly, by reservation only; the meal opens with deftly fried chips of fish skin and piquant house-made pickles (cucumbers, mango, and cauliflower have been in the mix).
Alongside the duck are toothsome thin pancakes, shots of full-flavored duck consommé, and hoisin, cranberry, and peanut sauces, as well as a selection of small plates and mains from Chef Joe Ng, a dim sum master and longtime CHOW hero. Winning dishes include excellent crab-scallop fried rice and dumplings filled with intensely meaty oxtail or shrimp and snow pea shoots.
Pookipichu, who finds the food superior to that at RedFarm upstairs—”fresher in thought, less forced and less trope-driven”—faults only a sometimes-heavy hand with sweetness and salt in the cooking as well as cramped seating, most of it at a long communal table. Decoy also pours unique cocktails like the Sitting Down for Dinner, with duck fat–washed George Dickel whiskey, lemon, egg white, and red wine. Did we say this place was about the duck?
Photo from Decoy / Facebook