If the Cronut™ has taught us anything (besides the importance of hiring a good trademark attorney), it’s how much we all love croissants. Not ’90s croissants, with their paleness and their flab, their chicken salad fillings, and their dubious fats that are not butter. These days we’re all really into croissants that crunch. CHOW’s Chris Rochelle found the latest evidence at Craftsman and Wolves in San Francisco. Earlier this spring, the pastry shop famous for the Rebel Within debuted the Haute Dog, a wiener straddling tradition and innovation, cradled in a brittle, flaky, croissantlike bun. Craftsman and Wolves’ William Werner told the San Francisco Chronicle that, like a lot of stuff San Franciscans are crunching right now, the Haute Dog’s inspiration is Japanese. The Chronicle describes it as an all-beef dog baked in a mustard-seed croissant, with grainy mustard and a welter of salt-and-vinegar beet chips on top, additional proof of our mania for crunch. Werner says the launch was timed for baseball season, though you whip one of these things out of your backpack at a game, you’re probably going to end up on crowd cam with croissant flakes all down your fan jersey.
Photos and styling by Chris Rochelle