Raves have been pouring in for Mozza, Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali’s new pizzeria. This, it seems, is the pizza Los Angeles has been waiting for, with thin, crisp crust that’s char-blistered almost to a fault (they clip off the excess blistering) and toppings like oregano salami; mushroom, fontina, taleggio and thyme; and salami piccante, mozzarella and hot chilies.
Says Foodie McFood of the fennel sausage pie: “I won’t go into too much detail as to raise your expectations any higher, but I will say that my friends and I were splitting tiny pieces of sausage just to make sure we could all have a last bite.” For hrhboo, the lardo pizza was the winner. (Hint for dealing with those friends who might get squeamish about “cured pork fat”: Call it “white prosciutto.”) “The crust was liberally brushed with olive oil and sprinkled with rosemary, then baked. Once out of the oven it was topped with cold lardo, which soon began to melt into the hot crust. Absolutely divine.”
The only quibble that comes up is the topping-to-crust ratio–as Ciao Bob says, “With each slice you get one bite of topping WITH crust followed by three to four bites of lonely crust WITHOUT topping/sauce. It is just too bready, IMHO: kind of like basketball arena seating (puny floor with deep swath of surrounding seats) and I want a baseball park (similar seating but larger playing field).”
Pizzas are personal size, so there’s room for other stuff. The cured meats are excellent and the Tuesday special, crisp duck legs with lentils and saba, has been officially designated awesome. Ricotta-stuffed fried squash blossoms and arancini (fried risotto balls filled with meat and cheese in a bright tasting bolognese sauce) are both perfectly fried and tasty.
The caponata, says Fidelixi, “was utterly amazing to this eggplant afficianado and lover. Tender, not too oily or salty, balanced with acid and currants and pine nuts. Great. I want a bowl right now. I want a bowl every day.”
Desserts are mostly simple, espresso-and-cookie based things (although they’ll be phased out later in favor of an all-gelato menu), but the butterscotch pudding is divine, ending with the taste of burnt sugar on the top layer.
Wines are priced $25-50 a bottle–Adsvino recommends the rosato from co-owner Joe Bastianich, the Ceresuolo, the Alianico, and the sparkling Cortese. You can get a quartino, a carafe that serves one.
Oh, and although the restaurant was booked solid for dinner its first week and a crowd was waiting outside for it to open for lunch (hours are noon to midnight), hounds noted a lull between about 3 p.m. and 5 p.m.