All Good Things opened at the end of last summer, giving Tribeca a European-style market bringing together local food vendors. The latest heartening news from this converted factory and warehouse is for diners, not shoppers. Chef Ryan Tate, who cooked at farm-to-table pioneer Savoy in SoHo, is trying out a prix-fixe tasting menu that he’ll introduce soon at Le Restaurant, an intimate dining room downstairs from the market.
Chowhound foodwhisperer, who previewed Tate’s project in a tiny street-level seating area near All Good Things’ bar, describes a five-course showcase of inventive New American cooking with fresh, high-quality ingredients. Le Restaurant is not a democracy: “There are no choices. You don’t know what they are serving until it is cooked and served. No printed menu. I just ate and loved it.” High points included a spring roll–like starter of foie gras crusted in crisp dough; a refreshing salad of beet, radish, red cabbage, and pomegranate; wonderful slow-cooked octopus; and pork belly topped with marinated white anchovies (pictured), a “wild combination that worked well.” (The one misstep: an oversalted fish course with basil cavatelli.) “When the basement opens,” foodwhisperer predicts, “I think this ‘secret’ place will be awesome.”
As for the upstairs market, it’s just what the neighborhood needed. Vendors include Orwasher’s Bakery, Blue Bottle Coffee, Dickson’s Farmstand Meats (which also makes nice sandwiches), Brooklyn’s Nunu Chocolates and Blue Marble Ice Cream, and Cavaniola’s from Sag Harbor, a purveyor of cheeses and cured meats. As foodwhisperer puts it, “All Good Things is great.”
Photo by foodwhisperer