The inventive Japanese food at Boerum Hill’s Taku delighted Chowhounds but played to an often-empty house—so the owners rewrote the script. Exit Taku, enter Lunetta, an Italian place offering inexpensive small plates starting at $3 and entrees in the $11 to $15 range, heavy on rustic, slow-cooked fare.
Chef and co-owner Adam Shepard remains in the house, but instead of Berkshire pork ramen he’s making satisfying orecchiette with sausage, among other things. Winning small dishes include roasted beets with rosemary, meatballs in deep, creamy sauce, cheese and cured meat plates, and bruschette with toppings such as mushrooms, roasted eggplant, and ricotta with lemon. For dessert, consider gelati—a recent trio of mascarpone, toasted almond, and chocolate hazelnut was rich and delicious. Service is friendly, though some report shaky timing and other opening-month missteps.
The Smith Street crowd is warming to the new format. “The place was PACKED,” Nehna reports after a satisfying Friday dinner. “I’m glad to see the new venture getting off to such a good start, as much as it saddens me that I never once saw Taku that busy. I guess the neighborhood got what it wanted.”