Chowhounds are known to obsess over the freshness, quality, and even sustainability of the fish in their sushi. At Beyond Sushi, those issues are off the table. The specialty at this six-month-old Manhattan restaurant is novel: colorful vegan and vegetarian rolls and wraps that even a nonvegan like alkonost can love.

The Nutty Buddy is a rice-paper wrap filled with soba, baked tofu, avocado, and romaine, seasoned with cilantro, sesame oil, and jalapeño peanut butter. Standouts among the rolls include the Spicy Mang (black rice, avocado, mango, cucumber, spicy veggies), Pickle Me (six-grain rice, gobo, carrot, pickled daikon, avocado), and Mighty Mushroom (six-grain rice, enoki and shiitake mushrooms, tofu, arugula). Beyond Sushi uses black and red rices and multigrain blends, eschewing the usual white. Dipping sauces such as white miso, chile-mango, toasted cayenne, and carrot-ginger add zing. Note that there are only a handful of tables, so takeout may be the best option.

Beyond Sushi [Gramercy]
229 E. 14th Street (between Second and Third avenues), Manhattan

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Photo from Beyond Sushi

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