It launches New Year’s Eve in Las Vegas (site of Longoria’s ill-fated Beso restaurant and Eve nightclub), with a name—SHe—that reads like some sort of caps-lock fail. SHe won’t be a place devoted to steakhouses’ cliché cuts for the gentle sex (what is a ladies’ cut prime rib?), but a destination for female high rollers. The Los Angeles Times quotes a press release describing SHe as “an updated interpretation of the gilded age when wealth and excessive opulence ruled America’s upper-class combined with a modern version of art deco to create the feeling of empowerment, especially for female guests.”

Something tells me SHe won’t be the kind of place where women sit around chewing Cohibas and making it rain for hotties in boxer briefs. Despite all the assertiveness talk, SHe’s vibe is  more Ivanka Trump than Ayn Rand, with a catwalk for cryogenic fogs and fashion shows. At a time when some states are rethinking access to abortion and birth control, “empowerment” is donning its Ann Romney statement necklace and attending a department-store luncheon of finger sandwiches and molded gelatin salads (see Laura Shapiro’s wonderful history of so-called ladies’ food, Perfection Salad) only this time with $250 Wagyu porterhouses. Let’s party like it’s 1980 all over again!

Photo by Chris Rochelle /

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