In a little-discussed corner of Queens, Vetro by Russo’s on the Bay is taking care of business, Italian-American style. tre2012 says the veal chop is massive yet fork-tender, while Atlantic salmon, an occasional special topped with crab and served with a light, lemony sauce, is spectacular. Though seldom mentioned by hounds, this deserves to be a go-to special occasion spot in Howard Beach, and for hungry travelers who’ve just landed at nearby JFK. tre2012, a visiting San Franciscan who did just that, recognizes in Vetro the kind of restaurant that thrived in North Beach back in the day. “Vetro’s food was excellent,” tre2012 says, “but the service brought it over the top. No pretentious, imitation-classy; just welcoming and perfect attentiveness and timing.”

Vetro by Russo’s on the Bay [Howard Beach]
164-49 Cross Bay Boulevard (at 165th Avenue), Howard Beach, Queens

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