It’s grueling work, but someone has to find out which milk shake rules at Artisanal Creamery in Glendale, Queens. Glendale is hungry, who seems up for the task, singles out a refreshing Italian water ice made with chocolate. “They add just a little milk before mixing,” Glendale says, “so it’s icy, smooth and light.” Almost as good is vanilla, which “just sings—both in a cone and in a shake.” Other winners include chocolate and pistachio, though the latter tends to clog the straw.

Some flavors work better in a shake than by the scoop. Dulce de leche, for one, is almost overpoweringly rich on its own, but “add milk, blend, and it’s the most amazing, creamy chilled butterscotch you’ll ever have.” Others—coffee, Amaretto, butter pecan—are best in cones or cups. Artisanal Creamery, which Chowhounds embraced soon after it opened in 2010, “doesn’t have newfangled exotic flavors,” Glendale notes, “but what they do have is deliciously homey.”

Artisanal Creamery [Glendale]
66-40 Myrtle Avenue (near 66th Place), Glendale, Queens

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