Zabb Elee brought fresh, fiery Isaan Thai food to Manhattan last year, but hounds have had little to say lately about the original location in Queens, which has changed hands (and cooks). So missmasala was pleasantly surprised to find first-rate food and a lively, packed dining room recently. “I felt transported to Bangkok,” she says.

Her meal, ordered “phet phet” (very spicy), included the best pak boong (swamp cabbage) she’s had in New York; a grilled shrimp salad that wasn’t overly sweet; a crisp omelet with pork; and sai oua, northern Thai sausage served with fragrant fried peanuts. “Everything was top-notch,” missmasala says, better than the food at the Manhattan branch. “If you like the Zabb Elee menu and you want it cooked the way it would be for Thais and not for Americans,” she says, “then you should try the one in Queens.”

Zabb Elee [Elmhurst]
71-28 Roosevelt Avenue (near 72nd Street), Elmhurst, Queens

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