Chewy Sicilian Gelato in Los Angeles?

Most gelato in the United States is made in the northern Italian style, using eggs as a thickener. But greengelato is on the lookout for Sicilian-style gelato, thickened with cornstarch. The texture is seriously chewy, and the gelato is almost taffylike when it's scooped out.

Mr Taster says you might find it at Bulgarini. That chewy texture is present in some of their gelatos, but not in others. Tops for chewiness is the dark chocolate. "Its texture was such that it was almost like eating a dense frozen fudge brownie," says Mr Taster, who notes that the pistachio is almost as thick. Other flavors, like vanilla and peach, have "very little chewiness."

You can also try Turkish ice cream, says Mr. Roboto. Look for a style called maras dondurmasi: It's made from salep flour (which is ground from the roots of wild orchids), and is incredibly chewy.

Bulgarini Gelato [San Gabriel Valley]
749 E. Altadena Drive, Altadena
626-791-6174

Bulgarini Gelato [Westside - Inland]
8686 Washington Boulevard, Culver City
310-815-1723

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