Gino, a time-capsule Italian restaurant on the Upper East Side, has somehow escaped hound attention–until now. serious says it deserves a try, if for nothing else than its first-rate Gino salad, a delicious chopped salad with beets and capers. Also recommended: paglia e fieno al segreto (white and green pasta with “secret sauce”). Pastas, steaks and chops, veal (marsala, piccata, Milanese, etc.) and a handful of simple fish dishes round out the northern-leaning menu. Cash only, as it has been for six decades.