The best tacos these days aren’t from taco trucks, they’re at taco tables, says Dommy. She recently stopped by a taco table conveniently sandwiched between the 101 and 10 and 5 freeways, where the specialties the separate the hardcore from the weak: cabeza and lengua.

The head and tongue meat are served in tissue-thin, handmade tortillas that are warmed in the steam from the grill. Cabeza comes in big, thin slices, with not much seasoning, just its own strong flavor. Lengua is chopped into big chunks, also without much seasoning. It’s nice and soft, and flavorful without being as funky as the cabeza. Salsa burns enough to numb your lips.

Taco table [East LA-ish]
4th St. and Boyle Ave, next to the 76 station, Los Angeles
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