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Restaurants & Bars

Zeph's

Josh Mittleman | Dec 20, 1999 03:47 PM

It tooks me two years to get around to it, but I finally tried Zeph's in Peekskill, and I recommend it.
It's a medium-sized place in an old factory building, but quite comfortable inside (and no problem parking).
The food is American eclectic, moderately expensive, and very good. The chef is quite talented.

I started with pierogies filled with sauerkraut braised with double-smoked bacon. It was served with a puddle of what I expected to be sour cream but was delighted to discover to be creme fraiche; a sprig of fresh dill; and a pile of pickled red grapes that were delightfully evocative of the pickled apple more common in eastern Europe noshing. This was a clever dish, and that's a word I rarely apply to a chef's work.

Choosing my appetizer was difficult, by the way: The other four choices all sounded wonderful. My wife's choice, eggplant and goat cheese tart, was.

For the main course, my wife had duck confit, which was exactly what it should have been. I had grilled salmon in a fennel sauce with gorgonzola-flavored polenta. Lovely.

The wine list is varied and moderate: No bottle above $40. The desserts and coffee were the only disappointment. The desserts were OK, but only OK; and the coffee was terrible. If we hadn't been out of time, I would have demanded they replace it.

Dinner for two with wine and drinks was $125.

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