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Yum Yum has morphed into Sesame

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Yum Yum has morphed into Sesame

Aromatherapy | Jun 22, 2004 04:58 PM

I saw the sign driving by this morning and stopped in at lunchtime to see what was happening. The former owners sold up and are moving back to China. Some of the same staff were there—one of the Chinese cooks, and a waitress. (I’m hoping the evening crew are still there too.) Friendly new folks.

I said “Chinese” cook because there’s now a Japanese side of the kitchen. Just what we need, another sushi-and-something-else joint. Grump. The list of house specialties has lost a lot of the Sichuan stuff and added some more ordinary dishes. Gone are the steamed pork with pickles, hong shao and dong puo pork, braised pork ribs (damn), pork tripe with pickles, all but one fish dish, and the cold noodles in chili garlic sauce (double damn). My favorite twice-cooked pork is still there, though.

Some new things look interesting: dry-cooked beef in cumin sauce (this must be getting trendy), ground beef w/celery in spicy sauce, “traditional” moo shi pork. The “crystal-looked aspic” cold dish was explained as a pork skin preparation that winds up a sort of jelly. Mom’s stewed pork with soy sauce might cover for those vanished braises.

My lunch of Ma Po tofu was solid—nice double whammy from Sichuan pepper and pickled red chili, with some chopped (not ground) meat.

Prices have come down a bit. The standard Chinese-American menu has expanded. They’ve done some welcome redecorating (the piano’s still there). Hours are basically the same except they’re closed between 3 and 5 now and stay open a bit later. Phone number’s the same. No mention of delivery limitations or charges.

1295 Broadway, Somerville
617-628-0018

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