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Yucatán Chowdown Report: 12-Course Tendejon de la Calle Dinner by Mateo Granados


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Yucatán Chowdown Report: 12-Course Tendejon de la Calle Dinner by Mateo Granados

Melanie Wong | Jun 17, 2010 05:05 PM

Last night 10 ‘hounds gathered outside Sebastopol at a biodynamic farm for the latest edition of Chef Mateo Granados pop-up restaurant, Tendejon de la Calle. We ordered everything on the menu to share.

I’ve had breakfast many times at Chef Mateo’s farmers market stand, but even with that familiarity, I was dazzled by his performance at dinner. I couldn’t help but think back to the fundraiser at The French Laundry a few years back where I handed out 3x5 cards and assigned each of the 10 chowhounds present to take detailed notes on one of the 10 items on our tasting menu to describe and critique. I wish that I had done the same yesterday, as Chef Mateo’s detailed preparations and vision for each dish certainly deserved the same degree of attention.

Here’s the Tendejon de la Calle menu for June 16, 2010.

Below I’ve transcribed the menu descriptions for the dishes in the order they were served. I’ll ask my dining companions to add their comments and impressions. I’m still working on the photos and will post them soon.

***Botanas -
TACONES: Crispy tortilla cone filled with Preston olive oil guacamole and baby Oregon Shrimp or Bolinas halibut-caper-radish, $3 each

***Antojitos –

ENSALADA DE CHIVO: Preston Vineyards tender goat flank steak salad, Tommy Boy fingerling potatoes, Ramon’s green beans, Ridgeview Farms radishes, White Crane greens, $14

EVOLUCION DE UN TACO: Preston Vineyard tender goat head cheese fried in Salmon Creek Ranch duck fat, Manuel’s fava bean puree, Tierra Vegetables guajillo sauce, Middleton Farm rhubarb salpicon, White Crane greens, $13

UN CURADO: Cured Bolinas halibut, shaved La Bonne Terre radishes and baby carrots, Middleton Farm torpedo onions, Gleason Ranch pork chicharrones, $14

ATOLE GRUESO: Tierra Vegetables green corn, olio di gio fried Salmon Creek Ranch duck egg, Manuel’s roasted asparagus, preserved Meyer lemon, $12

ENSALADA DE BETABEL: The Patch roasted duo of beets, Costeaux rustic torn balsamic croutons, White Crane greens, Bodega Goat queso fresco, shallot vinaigrette, $13

***Plato Fuerte -

ALCAPARRADO DE CONEJO: Slow braised Jones rabbit, La Bonne Terre baby carrots, Middleton Farms Walla Walla onions, capers, Manzanilla olives, Manuel’s asparagus salad, Tommy Boy fingerling potatoes, $20

POLLO PIBIL: Anatto seed marinated Gleason Ranch chicken, Middleton Farm garlic scapes and torpedo onions, Peterson Farm tomatoes, arroz mojado, $18

ENCHILADA DE PATO: Salmon Creek Ranch duck enchiladas, Tierra Vegetables home-made mole, Redwood Hill Farm raw milk feta, Ridgeview Farm shaved radishes, The Patch shaved onions, Quivira peppercress. $19

RODABALLO CON COSTRA DE CALABAZA: Pumpkin seed crusted Bolinas halibut, Amstrong Farm roasted duo of squash and squash blossoms, Preston Vineyard black olives, La Bonne Terre roasted pepper sauce, $21

MONTURA Y PIERNA DE CHIVO: Preston Vineyard tender duo of goat braised saddle and roasted leg stuffed with Armstrong Farm squash blossom, Middleton Farm garlic scapes, Tierra Vegetables chilaque sauce and seasonal vegetables, $22

***Dessert -
Dominique’s organic strawberry galette, $7

Redwood Hill Farm
5480 Thomas Rd, Sebastopol, CA 95472

Tierra Vegetables
651 Airport Blvd, Santa Rosa, CA 95403

Mateo Granados
399 Business Park Dr, Windsor, CA

Oh Tommy Boy's
5880 Carroll Road, Petaluma, CA 94952

Salmon Creek Ranch
1400 Bay Hill Rd, Bodega, CA

Middleton Farm
2651 Westside Rd, Healdsburg, CA

Gleason Ranch
Bodega, CA, Bodega, CA

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