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Wondee Siam Keeps Getting Better

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Wondee Siam Keeps Getting Better

Dave Feldman | Aug 1, 2003 12:42 AM

Each meal at the orignal Wondee Siam has been better than the last. Tonight, I had the best Thai meal I've ever had in New York, and the frustration was that I was by myself and couldn't order more dishes.

One point that I'm not sure has been emphasized is how lovely the service is at Wondee considering the close quarters. The young waitresses are upbeat and enthusiastic and rightfully proud of their kitchen.

Although it wasn't on the specials list as it often is, I was able to get a wonderful som tom (green papaya salad), enlivened with ripe cherry tomatoes. And, as ordered, very spicy. It was both a smidgen too sweet and dressing-soused, but these minor flaws were swamped by the melange of flavors -- this is the kind of Thai food that I miss from the West.

I ordered the larb gai, which was a stunner, served wetter than any larb I've ever eaten outside of the northern larb at Lotus of Siam. It is probably the single hottest dish I've ever been served at a restaurant -- maybe I should have realized something was up when the waitress came back twice and asked if I wanted the dish spicy. But this wasn't a great dish because of the heat, but was enhanced by it. I was dying for some raw cabbage to go with it, but it wasn't available.

Each time I go back to Wondee, I see more Thai patrons. It would really be a shame if this talented chef (or chefs) are disenfranchised if Wondee II closes (when I passed there, only two tables were occupied -- I snagged the last table at "I").

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