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Treetops/LaCroix update

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Treetops/LaCroix update

Barb Cohan-Saavedra | Jan 15, 2002 09:37 AM

Last night my husband and I went to Treetops for dinner. I am happy to report that the capable hand of Executive Chef Jean-Marie LaCroix was evident in our thoroughly delightful meal. I started with the soup special - gingered eggplant with pistachio and lime. It was silky and well-flavored. My husband's crisp lobster roll with mache salad and chili vinaigrette was a large portion, perfectly executed and gorgeously presented. Second course was a small portion of shiitake-crusted salmon served on a bed of baby bok choy in a sauce fragrant with five-spice powder. The salmon was crusted to a deep golden-brown while the inside remained surprisingly moist and flavorful. We cleaned our plates. My entrée was the seared tuna filet with vegetable ragout and curry jus. While I would have preferred a more assertive curry flavor in the sauce, the dish was wonderful. Like the salmon, the tuna had a thin crust from pan-searing, but was moist, tender and very tasty. My husband's grilled filet of beef with wild mushroom gâteau and cabernet sauce was a winner. Dessert was a show-stoppingly beautiful construction that tasted as good as it looked -- a stack of tiny rounds of tiramisu, coconut-rum sorbet and crème brulée separated by slices of strawberry, surrounded by berries and soaring wings of delicate tuiles. Wow. Service is good but sure to improve under the guidance of Bobby Boribong, former dining room manager at the Fountain, who has joined Chef LaCroix at Treetops. The meal wasn't cheap, but the quality more than justified the price. We can't wait to go back as the chef continues to redefine this talented kitchen and will recommend it to all our fellow chowhounds.

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