Restaurants & Bars 5

tomasso, north beach

crosparantoux | Jul 25, 2005 01:19 PM

This weekend I took refuge from the A16/Pizzaiolo hype.
Tomasso—75 years old, in North Beach. Real waiters: older, Italian, and gruff/friendly. Crisp pizzas out of an old woodburning oven. These weren’t cardboard; they were just soft and chewy enough in the middle. A pizza topped with spinach was perfectly balanced, as was the Italian sausage pie. Made a mental note to order a calzone next time—that domed crust is a thing of beauty. Best of all on a hot Saturday was the very Italian veg side: simple chilled broccoli tossed in lemon and olive oil. Wines by the glass were cheap and complex, not costly and bland as in the younger pizza startups.
There is graciousness, not attitude at Tomasso. They handle a crowd with smiles and honesty. No pretensions, easy on the wallet. We skipped dessert for strong, small lattes at Trieste up the street, then bought a bunch of books at City Lights.
Tomasso’s got A16 and Pizzaiolo beat on all counts: neighborhood, service, food, and wine.

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