1990 Bollinger “Grande Année” Brut (Champagne, France): A classic Bollinger. Period. Outstanding . . . OK, I’ll say more. The wine swas produced from approximately two-thirds Pinot Noir, one-third Chardonnay, vinified in oak initially, and then spent approximately 6-7 years en triage before ending up in the cellar, where it has reposed, quietly maturing and waiting to be opened. Served with a shrimp bisque – can I just say this was a fantastic pairing? -- the wine has a medium-golden hue, clear and bright, with a light mousse and fine bead; the bouquet is buttered brioche toast, yeast, apple pie, and a light spice note; the wine is round, full, and displays a richness and restrained power with its rich flavors and layered complexity; it shows great depth of flavor, yet the wine’s acidty and backbone carries this wine beautifully front to back and through the very long, clean finish. Outstanding! OK, wait – I said that. Fantastic! Wait. I said that too. Phenomenal! OK, that will do.