Restaurants & Bars

Manhattan Sichuan

Another Thumbs-Up for Szechuan Gourmet

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Another Thumbs-Up for Szechuan Gourmet

Dave Feldman | Sep 23, 2004 01:11 AM

Tonight I went to SG for the first time. It's located at 21 West 39th St. between Fifth and Sixth Ave. I went with one friend, so we couldn't possibly sample enough dishes to have a complete feel for the place, but we were very pleased with the meal.

We sampled two cold appetizers from the special Sichuan menu, the beef tendon with hot sauce and the pickled vegetables, and my friend had the hot and sour soup, which she said was steaming hot, and definitely made to order.

The sauteed dried string beans were fresh and light, but the star of the show was definitely the frog legs with Chinese eggplant, only moderately spicy but bracingly garlicky. The frog legs were cooked perfectly, juicy and tender, and I'm a sucker for gnawing on the bones.

The next table ordered razor clams, and they looked fabulous. They weren't on either of the menus, but we later found out they are usually available. They looked to be cooked in an extremely light green sauce. The extremely friendly young man who works the desk suggested we ask what fresh fish is available the next time we visit. Done!

The room is much nicer than average, without any gaudiness. And there are comfortable booths as well as tables. My sense is that SG is packed at lunch but dinner is relatively slow. At peak, the place was about 2/3 full, and we were allowed to linger without any pressure to leave.

Very promising.

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