The owners of one of the better gas-station parking lot barbecues in town (the Shell station at Powerline and Sunrise) have moved to a small restaurant space down the street and improved enormously in the process.
The St. Louis ribs are done in the local style: very little seasoning on the meat, smoky, pink, firm and juicy on the inside and crisp and charred on the outside, topped with some sweetish red sauce cut with lots of black pepper. They're marvelous, among the best in town, easily better than Jack's, right up there with the Georgia Pig and Tom Jenkins in terms of taste and texture, if maybe a little less meaty at least this time.
Maybe bigger news is that their mac and cheese and collards are easily the best in town, the former wet, peppery and chock full of gritty bits of sharp cheese, the latter firm and packed with stringy bits of pork. They shine with the vinegar.
They don't make fresh lemonade at the moment. The only dessert is sweet potato pie made on premises, which we didn't try. They plan to have Texas-style brisket this weekend.
Can't wait to get back there and try the chopped pork. Then the chicken.
[525 W. Sunrise, Ft. Lauderdale, north side of street. Closed Sundays.]
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