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San Francisco Bay Area Santa Rosa

Texana Torta from La Tejanita, Santa Rosa

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Texana Torta from La Tejanita, Santa Rosa

Melanie Wong | May 4, 2002 02:05 AM

One of my favorite taco trucks is La Tejanita near the car wash on Sebastopol Road in Santa Rosa for its ceviches and coctels. Recently I tried something different from the menu that shows off the care in everything they make here.

The “Texana Torta”, $4, is assembled on a split, buttered and grilled bolillo (Mexican-style roll). Even the bread itself has a bit more to it than the usual fare. The texture has more toothsomeness and less air, and the crust is slightly chewy and denser. The sandwich starts with a thin slice of hot ham and melted American cheese. Next is a generous layer of near greaseless, dry-fried, crumbly chorizo and a thick slice of queso panella (bright white and squeakingly rubbery similar to fresh mozzarella). This is topped with shredded iceberg lettuce, chopped fresh jalapeños, pickled hot red peppers, cilantro, chopped tomatoes, and a combination of grilled onions and diced raw onion. A sprinkle of hot sauce, a dab of sour cream, then it’s finished off with a layer of chunky buttery guacamole. The sandwich is wrapped in paper, and sliced in half for service.

Before I bit into it, I admired and marveled at the tight and well-defined layers revealed in the cut edge and how precisely this torta had been assembled. On tasting, I appreciated even more how each ingredient was present in just the right proportion to create the perfect combination in the mouth. This is torta production as an art form.

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