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Sweet 'n' Tart update

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Sweet 'n' Tart update

Allan Evans | Mar 12, 2001 08:19 PM

Had a lunch to rejoice over. One soup, listed as a noodle dish, is seaweed with assorted dumplings, lo mein with mung bean sprouts in a broth enlivened with minute bits of fried, almost burnt garlic. One cannot possibly be depressed after such lusciousness. The salt-baked chicken was once served in parchment; this has been changed, now baked in cast iron. While it seemed a bit moist the first few months of its transformation, today's had the crispiest skin and deepest flavor, the cuts lying atop of crushed ginger and scallions. Such a light hand (not oily or greasy), careful balance of herbs and ginger, show the originality of the cuisine. It is atypical and more valuable for the individual vision of healthy cooking combined with striking transparency in flavor and texture. Their standards have remained so high!

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