As sushi places go, Gen (Little Tokyo), Kiriko (Sawtelle), and Hamasaku (Santa Monica Blvd E of I-405, where Yuu used to be) go from traditional to new wave. Last week I ordered omakase at all three of them.
At Sushi Gen it's just the fish, and I thought the fish flavors came through really well. They have a remarkable number of sushi chefs, and I got the impression that the fish moves quickly. This was my favorite place, though I didn't keep notes on the specific fish.
I had thought Kiriko was great the first time I visited a couple of weeks ago; it starts with good fish and then does something simple to each piece, such as adding a brushing of sauce, a pinch of sea salt, or a bit of truffle. This works very well on the whole. But on my second visit, I found that they didn't have a lot of variety and that the sauces etc had worn a bit thin. Still, I would put Kiriko in the same category as Gen.
Hamasaku really serves small dishes rather than sushi, and when I asked for omakase they simply kept score on a copy of the menu. They served me things like a sashimi salad, some kind of sweet potato rolled in some kind of light brown wrapper with seeds, and a tempura crab. (They have lots of fancy rolls, but none of those came with the omakase.) It was all fine, though it was the most expensive ($75 as opposed to $40 at the other places). The dishes are designed for creativity and novelty, and not for the flavor of the fish, so it's probably not for the sushi traditionalist.
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