Restaurants & Bars

Manhattan

Sumile report....

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Sumile report....

mark | May 4, 2004 01:17 PM

Friends from Philadelphia and I had dinner at Sumile this past friday.
Reviews I had read were mixed - some gushed about the interesting flavors and high quality while others bitched about miniscule portions coupled with high prices. My friends and I decide decide to do the medium omakase ($100) and let the chef do whatever he wished. The chef, Josh DeChellis, came out and introduced himself. The waiter suggested a modest price sake ($40), which was fine. We started with a few amuse-buches followed by about 10 dishes. Some that really stand out in my memory - toro with burnt onion and green apple, duck breast with foie gras mousse foam, tapioca with lemon foam and wasabi, dungess crab with avocado and yuzu (?) - so many interesting dishes and I thought, very generous in portion size. I defintely see Bouley's influence in his dishes. Yet while Bouley seems to have too many flavors going on, DeChellis has maybe 3 or 4 flavors in a dish, very paired down. One of the more interesting desserts was a semi-frozen Sauterine with honey and yuzu served in a spoon. Service was nice. My friends liked Sumile much better than Morimoto's in Philadephia - they found Morimoto's to be too much of a scene and a lot of flash. It was not a cheap evening - with tip, about $150 per person - but the food is very good, interesting and at times quite remarkable.

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