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Sultan (no longer Bisselah Classic)


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Sultan (no longer Bisselah Classic)

Josh Mittleman | | Aug 23, 1999 02:43 PM

We went searching yesterday for Bisselah Classic,
recommended by Jim's book, and found it has been
replaced by a Turkish restaurant, Sultan, that's been
mentioned a few times here (including a summary of a
review by Eric Asimov back in March; shows how closely
I've been paying attention). I recommend you avoid
Sultan, and not only because the food made me sick.

To start with, most of the food was mediocre. The
appetziers were good -- imam bayildi, a version of the
pan-Middle Eastern stuffed eggplant dish -- and tarama
-- similar to Greek taramosalata but lighter. The
entrees, though, were lousy. Their special bass baked
in salt was overcooked and served almost naked,
accompanied only by a salad of iceberg lettuce and
scallions. Their mixed grill was bland; I'm not sure
how you can make lamb chops tasteless, but they

They lost me completely at 8:00 sharp, when they doused
the lights and pulled down a movie screen so that they
could show a tape of an interview with their chef that
apparently played on local news earlier this month. I
was appalled. The chef seemed rather pleased with

Last night's bout of food poisoning didn't help
either. I think it was something in the mixed grill.