After reading a recent editorial by the famed Spanish food critic Rafael García Santos (only available in Spanish) on the twilight of the Spanish Culinary Vanguard, I decided to browse his restaurant guide, Lo mejor de la gastronomía, to see who still makes the cut. I was particularly keen to see how American chefs made out.
Thomas Keller—at Per Se not the French Laundry—was up pretty high, alongside Pierre Gagnaire in fact, with an 8.5 on a 10 point scale. Wylie Dufresne’s WD~50 also had a solid finish at 8.0.
Most notable was Grant Achatz’s Alinea, which had the second highest score, a 9.5. He was but one spot behind Ferrán Adrià’s El Bulli, which received a perfect 10. If this is the autumn of the patriarch, is Chicago soon to be the new Roses?
Addendum: 1) The order within a particular score level tends to vary a bit, so Alinea won’t always come up second on the screen. 2) New York restaurant Masa ranks quite high with a 9.25—clearly García Santos hit the Time Warner center when last in New York—and is an exception to the Vanguard-centric approach. I don’t include it above because the chef is Japanese.
Links to reviews and Guide:
Lo mejor de la gastronomía: http://www.lomejordelagastronomia.com
Per Se: http://www.lomejordelagastronomia.com...
El Bulli: http://www.lomejordelagastronomia.com...
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