There's a new sushi chef in town and he intends to run the rest of you out and he may just be able to pull it off. Sotohiro Kosugi just arrived from Atlanta where he was legend. A fellow hound whom I respect always told me the best sushi he'd ever had was years ago at a small place in Atlanta of all cities and now I know why. Located on an unlikely block on 6th avenue between West 4th and Washington Place, no sign (how come the greatest restaurants usually don't have a sign?)Soto doesn't even have a liquor license yet. But Sotohirosan doesn't care-he is obsessed with being the best. The sushi was impeccable-on a par at least with any of the great places mentioned above. But the prepared dishes were better than anything I recently had at per se. A giant New Zealand langostine was split open and broiled and covered with shitakes that had been thinly sliced and covered the perfectly cooked shellfish, a cold steamed lobster was formed in a perfect ring by lotus and was layered with an uni mousse and garnished with house smoked uni and caviar on a bed of thinly sliced cucumber rounds. The piece de resistance was the biggest bowl of fresh Santa Barbara uni I'd ever seen which was mixed with finely chopped squid and shiso (which made it look like an uni shell) and sitting in a soy sauce reduction and topped with a raw quail egg. Expensive (even without sake-it's BYOB for now!) and worth it.