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Sichuan at New China Delight (Mountain View)


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Sichuan at New China Delight (Mountain View)

Melanie Wong | Dec 9, 2004 02:14 AM

When I read tanspace’s description of the new Sichuan/Shanghai place in Mountain View, I knew where I was to eat as soon as I got back to the Bay Area.
We did make it there for dinner, and since then my brother has actually been back five times. The manager confirmed that the Sichuan chef did come from the late House of Yu Rong, one of my favorite restaurants.

To get a good sense of the place for a first visit, we ordered:

Shrimp in green onion oil (cong you xia ren), $6.95 – this had been one of my favorites at Yu Rong. It’s just as good here, although made with barely cooked deveined ocean shrimp rather than the softer fresh shrimp. The layer of cucumbers underneath adds crunch and juiciness, and catches the pesto-like green onion oil so that none of that deliciousness escapes.

Sliced pork in minced garlic (suan ni bai rou), $5.95 – this was disappointing. The uneven, mangled pieces of pork appeard to have been sliced and then poached, and dripped water on the plate. The diluted garlic sauce didn’t have much flavor.

Dan dan noodle (dan dan mian), $4.95 – I was most excited about this dish, as Yu Rong’s had become my touchstone for dandan noodles. Intensely fragrant and ma la spicy with gritty pork, fresh spinach, and julienned cucumbers and little bits of intricate flavor shot through the hot red oil. My pick of the night. (shown below)

ChongQing deep fried chicken with roasted chili (chongqing la zi ji), $8.95 – wonderful flavor but bony and a work out to eat. Wing joints hacked into three pieces, fried and infused with smoky, spicy roasted chili love.

Braised pork fillet in hot sauce (shui zhu rou pian), $9.50 – this was pretty close to what I remember from Yu Rong with succulent pork and deadly spice, but with too much Chinese celery. A couple mouthfuls, and everything went numb. A fly that had been buzzing our table landed on the rim of this plate and didn’t take off when we waved over it. My brother picked it up and set it on the table cloth. After a couple minutes it flew off – we guessed that the spicy fumes had stunned it in some way. Beware.

Bell pepper with shredded potato (qing jiao tu dou si), $6.95 – a very good rendition with firm shreds with some snap and seasoned oil. A well-appreciated palate cleanser for the chilis on the table.

My brother’s return visits have mostly been for lunch. He mentioned that the shrimp dish has been different each time he’s ordered it – sometimes with smaller shrimp, no cucumbers, thinner sauce. He’s gotten the dan dan noodles for take-out and says that the kitchen does a good job packing the noodles separately from the sauce and the veggies.

What else have people tried here?

New China Delight Restaurant
360 Castro St.
Mountain View



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