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Shanghai Chow Mein at King Fung Garden

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Shanghai Chow Mein at King Fung Garden

C. Simon | Mar 25, 2003 11:27 AM

The waitress talked me into ordering Shanghai Chow Mein, which she said is a specialty and is ordered frequently by regulars. A newspaper clipping posted outside the restaurant confirmed this claim.

I am a Shanghai Chow Mein novice, but for what it's worth, here goes:

It had far less cabbage that the atrocious ubiquitous Americanized versions of chow mein. That being said, if I were being nitpicky, I might say that I could have used a bit more cabbage. There was hardly any, and I missed it.

The whole wheat noodles are shaped like overweight spaghetti. The same shape as spaghetti, just with a much wider diameter. The brown gravy and tender slices of beef were both tasty and soothing. In fact, after the first few bites, I had the impression that the dish was one of those peasant-style Chinese comfort food dishes, which suited its modest appearance.

THEN, I added the chili sauce. A small dish of red chili sauce came with the chow mein. Stirring in a generous portion of this sauce (all of it) transformed the dish from pleasant comfort food to one which tickled the taste buds with all sorts of different flavors and degrees of heat.

In the end, a really nice pairing of styles: comfort food with streaks of excitement.

I plan to go back soon and finally try their acclaimed Peking Duck.

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