Yep, we're right in the middle of the season I reckon, what with fresh sets coming straight from the Rappahannock, that newly de-dammed refuge of The Founding Fish. That is John McPhee's monicker, not mine. But one should read his book if interested in this boney relative of the herring, or in conservation in general. I'm sure many Hounds have an opinion of this delicacy, whether on the flesh or the eggs, but do buy a fresh set or two and cook it at home. I like one of McPhee's recipes the best, simply cooking the roe on a bed of bacon over the lowest possible flame in a covered, cast iron skillet for 35 minutes. Don't lift the lid for crying out loud! Cut a few wedges out of a lemon, squeeze some over the whole thing on a plate, turn off the NCAA noise, and drift back into George Washington's mindframe. Makes the world better again.