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Seattle Biscuit Bender

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Seattle Biscuit Bender

babette feasts | Jul 20, 2014 04:15 PM

Today, in order to entertain myself for a while, I went on a biscuit bender, sampling all the biscuits I could find.

I started at the London Plane. Although many items on the menu looked good, there wasn't really anything I felt like eating, and no two plates that seemed good to combine for brunch for one. The cobb salad to share looked good, but I didn't feel like a $24 salad all to myself. So, why not begin a biscuit binge? The house biscuit came warm with aprium jam and creme fraiche. It was a decent, serviceable biscuit with a nice light sweetness, but kind of tough and bland. Fine but not great. The biscuit was improved by the toppings and a little salt.

Next I stopped at Wandering Goose. The Regular comes pre-schmeared with raspberry jam and butter. This was my favorite in terms of the biscuit itself. The biscuit had a nice crisp crust and soft sweet cakey interior. Rich yet delicate. I considered asking for a plain one and wish I had, the thick layer of jam made it too sweet overall for me, and the gob of unmelted butter sandwiched in the middle put it over the top. It quickly turned into a crumbly jammy mess. I bet they'd be great plain, or as shortcake with fruit and whipped cream, but I don't think I'd want a sandwich on such a sweet biscuit.

Honest Biscuit was not too far away at the Broadway farmers market. I got their plain 'butterhole' biscuit. This was my least favorite. Slightly sour, very dense and bread-y, not buttery, neither particularly sweet nor savory. Seemed closer to Irish soda bread in texture. Maybe somebody's ideal of a biscuit, but far from mine.

Last stop was Biscuit Bitch at Cafe Lieto on 1st & Stewart. Another less-sweet, somewhat tangy biscuit. The Buttered Up Bitch came warm, split and buttered, with a side of topping, I chose honey. This was my favorite for eating overall. The biscuit was slightly savory - finally some flavor besides doughiness! - with a bit of a crust and rich moist crumb. The salty biscuit, melted butter, and honey came together in perfect balance. Unadorned, the biscuit would be second to Wandering Goose, but still above London Plane.

I considered a stop at Serious Biscuit, but didn't want to hurt myself, plus IIRC, the one time I did try them I found the biscuit tough yet oddly too buttery and wasn't excited to go back.

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