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Restaurants & Bars 12

Sarah's Steaks in Bridgeport

gregg robinson | Feb 5, 2002 09:04 AM

Just wondering if there's anyone oput there who remembers Sarah's Steaks in Bridgeport. I think it was on 26th & Canal, but I could be wrong. It must be like 15 years since I last saw it open, but this was an absolute treasure of a cheap eats place specializing in huge Italian-style breaded steak sandwhiches. These things were enormous pieces of pounded steak, coated in bread crumbs seasoned with garlic & parmesan, pan-fied, then dipped in Marinara sauce and slapped dripping into big Italian poor-boy rolls with sauteed green peppers, then wrapped in waved paper and stuffed into a paper bag with a good fistfull of napkins. The steaks always hung out of the rolls and you had to eat through this delicious overhang before you ever got to the bread. One sandwhich was a meal, though I often forced down two.
They also had pasta, beef, sausage, etc. But the steak sandwhiches were the main draw. Sarah ran the place and was a great Italian Grandma type who'd come out of the kitchen in her slippers carrying a dripping spoon in her hand and kibitz with the customers and even pinch people's cheeks (I saw her do this to a cop once)On Thanksgiving eve she'd hand out huge plates of mosticelli for free. (I always wanted to go down there on St Joseph's day, but never made it.) She was helped out by her son Joe, a good guy who looked like a small-time hood & always had a racing form in his pocket. They were open something like 6 AM till 3 PM, and I was so addicted that I occasionally had steak sandwhich for breakfast, and I wasn't alone: cabbies, cops, office workers, criminals, all were cheek to jowl in that shack.
Sarah's was so great that a couple other places sprang up and tried to duplicate her sandwhiches. I think one was very near the old Comiskey Park. They weren't as good or as generous as Sarah's, and didn't have the authority of her food, but these days I suppose they're as close as we'll ever get.
Does anyone know where anything like this can still be found?
--GR

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