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return to Forest Cafe

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Restaurants & Bars

return to Forest Cafe

MC Slim JB | Apr 24, 2005 08:39 AM

Visited the other night, having heard of the return of the original chef. I had not experienced the sharp downturn in quality in recent months prior to his return, and was frankly satisfied that Fahey's successors were basically slavishly reproducing the recipes he'd left behind some years ago.

I have to say I cannot detect a noticeable improvement in the food here, which is fine, as this has always been one of my favorite Mexicans in greater Boston. The tinga poblano was as delicious and zingy and fiery as ever, and an app of guacamole with cilantro and tomatillos was lovely, fresh-tasting, and good-sized.

But the mole of the night, based on three types of poblanos, fresh figs, chocolate, and almonds, was a genuine disappointment. The dish was undersauced, and the mole itself really lacked complexity and oomph. It was frankly dull. Wished I'd gotten the monkfish pozole, another special, instead.

Prices are still good: low teens for most entrees. Three kinds of fish offered with the many fish entrees: salmon, sword, and tilapia (another option I wished I'd gone with: tilapia with that green, pepita-based mole).

Bartending is still a weak spot: their top-of-the-line number, an $8 "markarita" had no discernible flavor of the El Tesoro reposada allegedly in it. This really bothers us: we expect Mexican places to have great margaritas.

Overall, we felt it was a nice meal and a good value (about $60 inclusive, with very friendly and efficient service), but I didn't get bowled over by Fahey's return the way I'd hoped I would.

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