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Restaurants & Bars 3

Yet Another Range Rave

Jimbo | Jul 27, 2005 11:41 PM

We made the 6 block trek from our apartment to Range only a week after it opened, due in part to the comments on this site [usually I'd wait a month or two]...Am I happy I didn't wait! We had the romaine/fried caper salad, the coffee rubbed pork, the chicken, and unusually for us, two desserts- the much mentioned souffle and the peach cobbler.All were as delightful as previous posters have indicated. Some subtlties- horseradish to give a bit of bite to the beet/frisse salad accompaning the chicken- hominy grits slow-cooked and then pureed w/ olive oil and sour cream to a whipped potato consistancy and served with sauteed chard, with the pork. The pork itself was fall-apart tender [sort of like a boffo pork pot roast]. Frying the capers [ fried in grapeseed oil] instead of "as is". The goat cheese souffle with a separate ramekin of strawberries was great, and not "sweet" [ though that might disappoint some folk]. and the Peach cobbler w/ ice cream and whipped cream was simply exceptional. This may not be permanent, but we were offered a complimentary amuse [house cured salmon wrapped around some chopped cuke with an arugula pesto dribbled on top] and also a complimentary citric ice at the end. Finally, our server was as honestly warm and welcoming, and obviously proud of the food, as any person in her position we've encountered recently, and added measurably to our enjoyment of our meal. My only quibble was that the salad was a rather small portion to try to share, and I also wished the soufle were larger- only because it was so damn good. On the other hand half the chicken went home with us. Our bill , including two coffees was just over $60 before tip.Range immediately ranks with Delfina and Firefly as my favorite medium-priced neighborhood places.

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