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PS7 - a review

bou | | Feb 16, 2008 08:53 PM

sweetbreads are not all that.

i used to serve it at Ten-O-Six back in my college days. and i always wanted to taste it. Tom would serve it with demiglace...and it would look so wonderfully fluffy and crispy on the outside.

as it turns out. it's way denser than i thought. i imagined it would break apart like scrambled eggs. and here is where the confusion starts. sweetbreads can be the pancreas or the thymus gland. which i imagine is somewhere near the throat. i imagine a pancreas would be denser than a thymus gland, no? so how to tell? 'excuse me, waiter, is your sweetbread today of the pancreas or of the thymus gland'?

anyway back to PS7. one of our folks ran late so we went to the bar for a drink. sb had a snow queen vodka infused with beets that actually was quite nice. the beets cut through the vodka very nicely. i had a gruner veltliner that was quite pleasant and jae had the sidecar. he kept saying it tasted like a yummy long island. i didn't agree...

we got hungry while waiting for 1 member of the party and ordered fried risotto balls. it is of my opinion that fried risotto balls can't be small. because it is already dense. i think bigger will retain moisture. actually bigger because of a hunk of gouda stuffed into it, would be better. these were large marble-sized with a cube of genoa salami inside and a soft gouda cheese dip on the side. the dip was ridiculously good. runny like brie and fragrant.

once our complete party sits, we share 3 apps. braised short rib studded with foie and enclosed in a phyllo dough. it was EXCELLENT with a beef jus and sweet potato puree accompanying it. but i saw no hints of foie WHATSOEVER. we also got a mushroom terrine that was thin mushrooms wrapped around an herb goat or chevre. wonderful and rich for vegetarians. and creamed oysters over leeks (i think)... also a nice touch. all of this was served with 3 little buns per person. i can't tell you how good they were. parker house rolls, i think. there was an amazing biscuit, a wheat-like roll (my fav) and a white roll. served piping hot with a soft sweet butter, and although i generally prefer cold butter myself, i was very happy to slab the butter on and then dip the bread into the various sauces of the apps.

main entrees. i had a veal scallopini stuffed with chestnuts (supposedly) and something with sweetbreads. the veal was nice. but again, this whole not noticing a main ingredient bothers me. sb's scallops were excellent. perfectly cooked as in a crust on the outside but translucent in the center with a grapefruit butter. jae's monkfish was well cooked, but i felt needed more sauce or a heavier one. and chow's pork loin and belly was pork loin and a slab of bacon. both were forgettable compared to sb's and mine. then again, i do have a talent for ordering the best dish on the menu. hehehehehe...

let me say something here for all the restaurateurs and chefs of the world. if you say belly? it should be a chunk. not a slice of bacon. otherwise, just say bacon. it's very misleading and just plain rude. i am a belly fanatic. and had i ordered that....i actually sensed that i'd be disappointed...i would've been pissed.

for the best pork dish ever, btw? if you happen to be in atlanta.. go to south city kitchen for the Pan-Fried Pork Chop crisp smoked kurobuta pork belly, local field peas, green tomato piccalilli, fried rosemary ...

it is my most favorite dish of the last few years. most memorable definitely.

our desert was an apple crisp with brown butter ice cream.

what we got was a deconstructed dessert, which i have no problem with. but for a crisp, it needed more crisp. it was a big scoop of brown butter ice cream (very nice) over tiny diced apples that had been perhaps a quick braise... with walnut cookies (sable), a geleed drop of what looks like candy but is actually a very fresh apple sauce. though golden yellow in color. quite amazing really... and the crisp was tiny dried nuts. THAT'S NOT A CRISP...

all in all, i am quite glad for this meal. i had a good time, and i ate well. and the portions are actually quite fair. in the sense that you will be full.

missing crucial ingredients aside, nothing tasted bad.

but would i return to PS7? i'm not sure. though i notice i am far more reluctant to try new places. if i want to celebrate these days, i go to Wine Market in Baltimore or Colvin Run in Virginia. kinda a shame...i should be more open-minded.... hehe.

777 I St NW
Washington, DC 20001
(202) 742-8550