Restaurants & Bars

In Praise of Osteria 832--Atlanta

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In Praise of Osteria 832--Atlanta

butterisbetter | Dec 28, 2003 09:09 PM

Maybe I overlooked it, but we Atlantans are sadly lacking if we've neglected to post about Osteria 832. I've taken my family there about every other week since they opened; the food is hearty, very good quality and even reasonably priced. Wines are Italian, diverse, interesting, and ALSO reasonably priced. I mentioned Osteria in an earlier thread for an out of towner, but I want to be sure this place keeps going gangbusters so it's more important for all you locals to home in on it.

My standby is now the arugula salad--just baby arugula, lemon juice, olive oil & salt. They always get the balance of oil to tart just right, and yet with all that attention to perfect dressing it still doesn't weigh down the baby greens. Then I either have the mussels in red sauce (you can also choose white--it's basically the red sauce with white wine added, as far as we could tell, but tastes fine), or the aged ricotta in red sauce, or the antipasto plate. On the antipasto plate they reliably serve 2-3 different cheeses, proscuitto, a dry salami or two, various olives, roasted red pepper and artichoke hearts (no cans here!) and a dollop of a fresh marinated salad, sometimes eggplant caponata, sometimes something else.

I keep meaning to write about their eggplant caponata to that column at the AJC where they ask the restaurant to share a favorite recipe...but I'm far too lazy to track down all the requisite info, so if any reporters are lurking, please help me out here.

The rest of my family tend to be pizza eaters, and Osteria's thin-crust pies beat Baraonda and Fritti hands-down for about 2/3 the price.

We've tried 3 or 4 of the pastas and all are al dente and generously sauced. Sadly w/ 3 and 5-y-o's in tow we know a lot more about their plain old pasta pomodoro than anything else, but it is eagerly inhaled by said children.

Okay, their standard bread, a ciabatta, is not great. It's a little too cakey and dense, with a thin little amount of oregano and salt sprinkled on top, and it rounds out a few too many of my favorite dishes. I miss those big light air bubbles and really dry, crispy crust of Alon's down the street...but at those prices, who's complaining?

They have started doing wine tasting with hors d'oevres one evening a month from 5:30-7, don't know the night, but call them. It was great in Nov. Patio eating when the weather's good, friendly, fairly quick service, great with kids but we've seen plenty of grownup tables enjoying it too.

832 N. Highland Ave, where Highland Bagel and Caribou used to be. Right next door to (why do people eat there?) American Roadhouse. They're awesome in the $10-12 meal category...

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