We spent 4 days over last weekend in Prague, just as the sun came out! Got a few recommendations from CH, some from the guidebook and some just by chance as we walked past. Please excuse the spelling of some of the Czech names!
We arrived and went straight out for lunch. Unhelpfully I can't remember what the restaurant was called, but it was in the vaults below some sort of trendy design shop and posibly architecture museum in Praha 1 I think. My garlic soup was fabulous! I'm not sure my friend was so thrilled I'd eaten a whole bowl of garlic...
The first evening, we went to U Medvídků, Na Perštýně 345/7, 11000 Praha 1-Staré Město as I'd seen it mentioned in few posts here. There seems to be a bar/restaurant area and another big restaurant area with bright fluorescent lights and not much atmosphere. We had a beer at the bar then got a table in there too. My pheasant legs with red cabbage, white bread dumplings and bacon dumplings was quite delicious. My friend was quite pleased with her stroganoff. The service was friendly and efficient, and the prices about standard for Prague - incredibly cheap compared to London. This was also our first introduction into how incredibly smoky Prague is...
The next day we had lunch at Chudoba near Na Perštýně 345/7, 110 00 Praha-Staré Město. We were assured by the guidebook that Vinohrady was a cosmopolitan area with pletny of cafes and restaurants, but this seemed to be one of the only places open! This had a bar area and a restaurant area. We tried to get a seat in the restaurant, which smelled enticingly of garlic and pasta, but unfortunately we could only sit in the smoky bar. The menu was quite odd - salad of duck, spinach and jalapenos, anyone? - but I went for a pretty standard goats cheese salad, and my friend had a grilled trout with a side of garlic spinach. Not worth going back to.
Dinner was at Enotria, Opatovická 159/17, 110 00 Praha. A tiny Italian place in a bare brick vault that we happened ot pass while out exploring. We were the only people in there, and the waitress may have been doing her first shift! But it was lovely. I had an excellent meat and cheese plate and my friend had assorted bruschetta. Our pastas were great, as was the ridiculously cheap Italian wine. No room for dessert, but a very enjoyable evening.
The next day we went to the castle, and as the sun had come out we stopped at Villa Richter for a coffee and a bask. Sitting on the terrace and looking down over the vineyard is delightful, but it feels a bit like the siege of Helm's Deep as you watch the huge tour parties descending down the path towards you! We had to abandon our table when a large party of Americans arrived and needed all the space, but I did manage to squeeze in a pretty decent cup of coffee. I'm told it's great for dinner in the summer.
Then we stopped and had lunch at Hergetova Cihelna, on the river by Charles Bridge. This was a rather touristy place, with a menu that reflected that (champagne, foie gras burgers, chicken tikka masala!) but it was a nice place to sit in the sun and watch the people crossing the bridge. My duck rillettes salad was quite disappointing - tiny, with tasteless unripe figs, and pallid parcels of rillettes wrapped in something like a wonton wrapper and deep-fried. As expensive as one might expect for a tourist trap!
For our last evening, we wanted beer and traditional Czech food again. We had a couple of beers in a bar called Duende, Karolíny Světlé 30/277 11000 Hl.m. Praha-Praha 1. This seemed like quite a local place. The beer was good and cheap and they played Placebo, so I was thrilled to be back in my teenage years! We staggered down the road to U MATĚJE KOTRBY Křemencova 1738/17 11000 Praha 1-Nové Město and both had goulash. This was the thickest stew I've ever eaten, dense and brown, with chunks of tough chewy beef, and bacon dumplings. After all that beer it was one of the best things I've ever eaten! But by any other standards I'm not sure it was great. This was also the most revoltingly smoky place I've ever had to eat. It's amazing how quickly you get used to everywhere being non-smoking at home.
On our final day, we walked past Maitrea, Týnská ulička 1064/6 110 00 Prague 1-Old Town and were glad of the opportunity to eat something green. And it's non-smoking! It's a lovely space, with gorgeous carved wooden benches. Kind of hippy, as you might expect, but none the worse for it. My couscous risotto with red pepper cream was delicious - fresh and full of flavour. Also more than I could eat, which rarely happens. My friend's enchilada was also very good, with what looked like home-made guacamole and salsa. We ate dessert for the first time - a brownie for me and carrot cake for her. My brownie was chewy and rich and came with a strawberry and mint puree. I took half away to eat at the airport! Her carrot cake was made with millet and I'm not sure it was baked - the carrot strands were still whole and the millet hadn't really formed a cake as such. She also only managed half. A nice change of scene from the wood-panelling and beer.
All in all, a very enjoyable trip with some good chow. Prague has changed a lot in the 10 years since I was last there: there seem to be a lot more modern, non-traditional restaurants, and many of the "traditional" ones seem to cater very much to tourists. But it's still a fabulous and beautiful city, especially during the week when many of the big groups have gone home. I hope this might be helpful for anyone travelling there soon!