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Pittsburgh review: Bikki

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Restaurants & Bars

Pittsburgh review: Bikki

Cara Gillotti | Oct 16, 2003 12:25 PM

The good:
1. It's gorgeous. Neutral but rich colors, ambiant lighting like sunset in the desert, tealights flickering on each table. The place glows.

2. It's relatively inexpensive. The most expensive thing on the menu is a cashew crusted rack of lamb with rosemary, black bean & red chili reduction for $22.

The bad:
1. The restaurant was half-empty (half-filled?) and we were still seated right by the front door, where the hostess was as good as hovering over us the whole time.
2. Rolls brought to the table were cold.
3. The sound system needs to be redone. I'll stop.

The food:
"We should have gone to Peoples' and spent $8," grumbled my friends, but it's our fault for ordering the three curries: chicken, shrimp, and vegetable. While it's arguable that we ought to have tried something more emblematic of fusion (Euro-Indian, in this case, for those who may not know) like the filet mignon on poori topped with red curry-tomato Béarnaise, a curry is as good a litmus test as any. "But three?", you're thinking. I know, I know. The curry was good, somehow both sharp and gentle, tender dark meat chicken, julienned peppers and carrots and onions and eggplant, dusted with shredded coconut. A riot of color dusted with herbs. But it was served with a wheat flatbread that was inedible - spongy and cardboardy. I don't know how that happened.
But there's a great appetizer, seared ruby tuna on a poori with chives and chopped tomato and what I remember as a springline bechamel sauce, although that can't be right. A bechamel? Anyway, it's off the menu now.

So our thought was that it ought to ratchet it up or down a few notches, rather than try to sustain this mid-range existence that I think is hard to sustain in a city like Pgh.

I'm curious to hear anyone else's impressions.

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