I stopped eating regularly at Salvatore's when Salvatore returned to Italy quite a few years ago. In the past two months, however, I've dined there three times. The menu shows Salvatore's ex-wife, Raffella Morelli, as the owner-chef, but there is some male host that patron-reviewers refer to as the "owner". He's worn blue jeans, tennis shoes and the same un-tucked-in plaid shirt each time I've been there, seems rather phoney and pays no attention whatever to management of the front. Last Saturday evening we waited over an hour for our main courses and our waiter spent nearly 15 minutes B.S. ing with one of the regulars while we waited for dessert menus. So, is that sloppily-dressed, inattentive dude really the owner? Just askin'.